Western Lake District Trail – a cycling route through the lakes and forests of Pomerania

Traversing the West Pomeranian lake districts, you'll discover one of Poland's most underrated landscapes. This route leads through areas rarely visited by mass tourism, offering authentic contact with nature, peaceful small towns and genuine rest. True to its name, the route passes countless pristine lakes at regular intervals, each with clean water and numerous beaches. The journey begins in Siekierki on the Polish-German border, from where asphalt cycling paths built on former railway tracks lead through five landscape parks to the most popular lake districts – Ińskie, Drawskie and Szczecineckie.

Essential Route Information

Difficulty: easy to moderate, with several more challenging unpaved sections
Elevation profile: gently undulating terrain with individual climbs, highest point at 245m above sea level
Surface: predominantly asphalt, with sections of gravel and short stretches of unpaved roads
Route type: mainly dedicated cycling paths (particularly in the south), partially local roads with minimal traffic
Recommended direction: west to east (Siekierki – Miastko) due to better infrastructure in the initial stages
Recommended bike: trekking or gravel bike, ideally with light luggage

Route Marking & Navigation

The route is waymarked, though marking quality varies between sections. The southern part of the trail (Siekierki – Ińsko) is best prepared infrastructurally and runs mainly on dedicated cycling paths along former railway embankments. The further east you go, the more frequently local and forest roads are used.

Some sections require particular attention – between Brzeźniak and Kumki lies a difficult-to-traverse unpaved section that can be bypassed using asphalt roads through Poligon Drawski. Good GPS or a cycling app is recommended, especially on sections leading through forest complexes.

Best Direction & Season

We recommend cycling from Siekierki toward Miastko. This direction allows you to start from the most spectacular point – the European Bridge – and then enjoy the best-developed cycling infrastructure in the initial phase when your riding rhythm is still being established.

Optimal periods for the journey:

May-June: flowering nature, fewer tourists, comfortable temperatures
August-September: blooming heather near Borne Sulinowo (from mid-August), autumn colors, warm lake water
September: red deer rutting season on the Oder floodplains – a distinctive natural phenomenon with deer calls echoing across the wetlands in morning and evening hours

Avoid the Pol'and'Rock Festival period (first weekend of August) if planning accommodation near Czaplinek – everything is booked by festival participants.

Main Stages & Highlights

Stage 1: Siekierki – Trzcińsko-Zdrój – Myślibórz (63 km)

The route begins at the European Bridge in Siekierki, the longest cycling crossing over the Oder River. This 770-meter structure with a viewing platform makes an excellent first stop – views extend over the Kostrzyn Floodplains, a sanctuary for 180 bird species. The bridge built in 1892 was blown up in 1945, and after reconstruction served exclusively military purposes. Only in 2021 did it gain new life as a cycling bridge connecting Polish and German trails.

The path continues almost entirely on an asphalt cycling road along a former railway embankment. The route passes the War Cemetery in Stare Łysogórki with its 18-meter monument commemorating the 1945 Oder crossing. The former station in Klępicz has become a popular refreshment stop where you can rest and try homemade cheesecake.

In tiny Czachów, the church contains some of Poland's oldest polychrome decorations, with 14th-century folk paintings including the famous "merry devil." The stage ends in Myślibórz with preserved town walls and gates.

Stage 2: Myślibórz – Barlinek – Choszczno (60 km)

The route leads through the Myślibórz Lake District, mainly on asphalt cycling paths along former railway tracks. In Barlinek, learn about Emanuel Lasker – world chess champion who held the title for a record 27 years. His family home stands at 7 Chmielna Street, while the lakeside park bears his name and offers outdoor chess boards. Also visit the historic Mill-Paper Mill on the Płonia River, now a cultural center with the Summer School of Architecture. The route passes the former station in Lubiana with a 1942 locomotive – the beginning of a private technology museum.

Stage 3: Choszczno – Dobrzany – Ińsko (47 km)

In Choszczno's market square stands the Polish Cycling Stars Alley with handprints of Poland's greatest cyclists – from Stanisław Królak to Zenon Jaskuła. The town preserves Poland's third barbican (alongside Krakow and Warsaw), now adapted as a library. Inside the Church of the Nativity of Mary, see a rare medieval ceramic bas-relief depicting the Tree of Jesse. The road leads mainly on local routes through the Choszczno Lake District toward Ińsko. In Dobrzany, the route connects with the variant from Szczecin.

Stage 4: Ińsko – Drawsko Pomorskie – Złocieniec (44 km)

From Ińsko runs a cycling path and local roads through exceptionally attractive landscape – gently rolling, with open fields and meadows between forest complexes. The section between Brzeźniak and Kumki is difficult unpaved terrain that can be bypassed on asphalt roads through Poligon Drawski.

Drawsko Pomorskie lies on the Drawa River, one of Poland's most beautiful rivers with a kayaking trail named after Cardinal Karol Wojtyła. In Złocieniec, admire the monumental Hornbeam Avenue – 83 trees forming a tunnel of intertwined branches. At 40 Śląska Street awaits a surprise – a dragon that can flap its wings and breathe fire.

Stage 5: Złocieniec – Czaplinek – Borne Sulinowo – Szczecinek (72 km)

The longest stage leads through dedicated cycling paths and gravel forest roads. In Nowy Kaleńsko, you can detour 4.4 km north to the Western Lake District's largest baroque palace in Siemczyno with museum and accommodation at a Cyclist-Friendly Place. Near Lake Krzemno lie mysterious stone circles from the 1st-3rd centuries AD, belonging to the Goths.

Czaplinek is famous for Lake Drawskie – Poland's second-deepest lake (79.7m) – and the Pol'and'Rock Festival at a former military airfield. Nearby stands Drahim Castle in Stary Drawsko, for centuries guardian of the "via marchionis," the northern crusade route.

Borne Sulinowo is an extraordinary town without map history – until the 1990s a secret Soviet garrison, today a peaceful town among forests. Barracks buildings, the 1930s Officers' House and the "submachine gun monument" in the cemetery create a singular atmosphere. On the former military range stretch Poland's largest heathlands (blooming from mid-August), and from the viewing tower in the "Diabelskie Pustacie" reserve unfolds an expansive view.

Stage 6: Szczecinek – Biały Bór – Miastko (54 km)

The final stage through the Szczecinek Lake District. In Szczecinek, see the 15th-century Pomeranian Dukes' residence with an intriguing two-story bridge and Europe's longest water ski cable. Leaving town, the route passes the Pomeranian Wall fortifications, including B-Werk – one of the largest bunkers in the entire system.

Biały Bór is "little Ukraine" – a town settled after the war by Ukrainians relocated in Operation Vistula. A school complex with Ukrainian language instruction operates here, with a monument to Taras Shevchenko at the entrance. The main attraction is the Greek Catholic church designed by Jerzy Nowosielski – the artist's life work, whose form and interior don't resemble traditional temples, though they observe the canon. Just outside town rises the Pomeranian Sand Mountain (245m above sea level), formed from 8 million tons of sand from aggregate extraction.

Key Attractions Along the Route

The trail leads through a wealth of historical, natural and cultural monuments. Here are the most important stopping points:

Historical and cultural sites:

European Bridge in Siekierki – 770-meter crossing over the Oder with viewing platform overlooking the Kostrzyn Floodplains
War Cemetery in Stare Łysogórki – memorial site for 2,000 soldiers who fell during the 1945 Oder crossing
Polychrome decorations in Czachów – some of Poland's oldest folk paintings from the 14th century, with the famous "merry devil"
Moryń – medieval town walls and the Pleistocene Stars Alley with realistic ice age animal figures
Trzcińsko-Zdrój – well-preserved walls with town gates and one of Poland's oldest town halls from the 13th century
Mill-Paper Mill in Barlinek – historic building on the Płonia River, now a cultural center with Summer School of Architecture
Barbican in Choszczno – Poland's third barbican (alongside Krakow and Warsaw), currently a library
Tree of Jesse in Choszczno – rare medieval ceramic bas-relief in the Church of the Nativity of Mary
Viewing tower in Ińsko – 30-meter structure with elevator, offering panorama of Ińsko Landscape Park
Drahim Castle in Stary Drawsko – medieval Knights Hospitaller fortress on the "via marchionis," with white weapons exhibition and knight displays
Borne Sulinowo – secret Soviet garrison town, today a peaceful town among forests with distinctive military architecture
Palace in Siemczyno – Western Lake District's largest baroque palace with museum and hotel
Church in Biały Bór – Jerzy Nowosielski design, the artist's life work

Natural attractions:

Kostrzyn Floodplains – sanctuary for 180 bird species, particularly spectacular in September during red deer rutting season
Beech Forest – on the Szczecin branch of the trail marked as number 20A
Lake Morzycko – one of Poland's cleanest bodies of water, 60 meters deep, with submerged attractions for divers
Barlinek Landscape Park – extensive area protecting forests and lakes
Bagno Kusowo Reserve – Poland's best-preserved raised bog with wooden boardwalks
Lake Drawskie – Poland's second-deepest lake (79.7m), largest in the Drawsko Lake District
Valley of Five Lakes – picturesque valley in Drawsko Landscape Park, source of the Drawa River
Diabelskie Pustacie Reserve – Poland's largest heathlands, blooming from mid-August, with viewing tower
Stone circles near Lake Krzemno – mysterious structures from the 1st-3rd centuries AD, belonging to the Goths

Military history sites:

Pomeranian Wall fortifications – bunker system between Szczecinek and Biały Bór, including B-Werk
Poligon Drawski – Europe's largest military range, still active
Kłomin – extinct settlement on the range with mysterious nuclear missile silos

Advance booking is essential especially in summer season (June-August) and during local events like Ińskie Lato Filmowe or Pol'and'Rock Festival.

Access & Transportation

Getting to the start

Siekierki is most conveniently reached by train to Mieszkowice (Szczecin – Kostrzyn line), from where about 10 km of cycling remains. Alternatively, reach Godków, also on the Szczecin – Kostrzyn line. On the German side, the nearest station is in Wriezen (12 km from the bridge), served by Deutsche Bahn trains from Berlin, Frankfurt an der Oder and Eberswalde.

If starting in Chojna (several kilometers from the route), use long-distance connections on the Szczecin – Wrocław line.

Getting back from the end

The endpoint in Miastko has rail connections, though expect a transfer. More convenient may be ending the journey in Szczecinek or Biały Bór, which have direct connections to Szczecin, Koszalin and other major cities.

Transport along the route

The entire trail is very well connected by rail. PKP stations are found in most towns along the route:

Stage 1: Godków
Stage 2: Choszczno
Stage 3: Choszczno, Lisowo, Chociwel, Ognica
Stage 4: Złocieniec, Drawsko Pomorskie, Wiewiecko, Chociwel
Stage 5: Złocieniec, Bobrowo, Żelisław Pomorski, Czaplinek, Czarny Mały, Łubowo, Jelenin, Szczecinek
Stage 6: Szczecinek, Biały Bór

Connections served by POLREGIO and Intercity. Timetable available at https://portalpasazera.pl

Practical Considerations

The southern part of the route (Siekierki – Ińsko) is safest and most pleasant for less experienced cyclists – almost entirely on dedicated, asphalt cycling paths along former railway embankments. The further east, the more riding on local and forest roads.

Challenges on the route:

The Brzeźniak – Kumki section is difficult unpaved road – can be bypassed on asphalt roads through Poligon Drawski (detour via Storkowo, Studnica, Ziemsko and Oleszno)
The Złocieniec – Bobrowo section contains about 1 km of difficult unpaved road
Stage 5 is longest (72 km) and partially on gravel forest roads – requires good fitness
The final stage (Szczecinek – Miastko) has fewest dedicated cycling paths and most riding on roads with general traffic

Available facilities:

Grocery stores and restaurants in all larger towns
Rest points at former railway stations (popular stop in Klępicz)
Cyclist-Friendly Places with storage and basic tools (e.g., Siemczyno Palace)
Numerous lakeside beaches for rest and swimming
Gas stations in larger towns

Drinking water is easily replenished at restaurants and tourist attractions. In summer season, carry supplies, especially on forest sections between towns.

Final Tips

Plan the route considering your own fitness and experience. Beginners will be happiest focusing on the southern part (Siekierki – Ińsko), where infrastructure is best and the route most pleasant. Advanced cyclists will appreciate the challenges of later stages and opportunities to diversify the route with excursions to places like Kłomin or the heathlands near Borne Sulinowo.

Excellent rail connections along the route allow flexible stage planning – if fatigue or weather become factors, a PKP station is always nearby.

Consider combining cycling with a kayaking trip down the Drawa River between Drawsko Pomorskie and Złocieniec – kayaking companies offer bike transport. This is an extraordinary way to diversify your journey!

The trail intersects with other cycling routes – in Trzcińsko-Zdrój with Blue Velo, in Złocieniec with the Old Railway Trail from Kołobrzeg to Wałcz, and in Dobrzany it connects with the variant from Szczecin. This enables creating longer loops and exploring even larger areas of West Pomerania.