Parenzana Cycling Trail

The Parenzana is one of the most scenic and historically rich cycling routes in Europe, tracing the path of a former narrow-gauge railway that once connected Trieste (Italy) to Poreč (Croatia). This 123 km route winds through dark railway tunnels and historic viaducts, past rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, and dense woodlands.

Originally built in 1902, the railway was operational for only 33 years, but today it has been revived as a cycling and hiking trail, offering an unforgettable journey through three countries: Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia.

The current Parenzana cycling trail ascends to medieval hilltop towns that once thrived as bustling market centers thanks to the railway, only to become nearly deserted after its closure in 1935. Along the way, you might encounter shepherds tending their flocks, truffle hunters with their dogs, and opportunities to taste the region's renowned wine and olive oil, made from the very fruits that were once transported along this historic railway.

Key route information

Total distance: ~123 km (76 miles)
Difficulty: Moderate (some steep climbs, mixed surfaces, gravel/MTB bike recommended)
Elevation gain: ~1,500 m (4,900 ft) total ascent
Surface: Mostly gravel and compact dirt with some paved sections
Best direction: Trieste → Poreč (gradual ascent in Slovenia, mostly descent in Croatia)
Best time to ride: Spring (April–June) and Autumn (September–October) for mild weather and fewer crowds

Signage quality and route conditions

The Parenzana cycle trail is well-signposted along most of the route, but signage quality varies by country:

Italy (Trieste to Sežana): Markings are sporadic, as the first section follows urban roads and bike lanes rather than dedicated trails. The first section of about 12 km is the only part that hasn't been converted into a trail.

Slovenia (Sežana to Dragonja): Well-marked with official Parenzana signs. The trail is in excellent condition, mostly gravel and compact dirt, with clear directional indicators.
Croatia (Dragonja to Poreč): The trail part in Croatia begins with an abrupt climb. Croatian part is considered to be the most scenic and best-maintained section. Signage is generally good, but some rural areas have fewer markings—using a GPS track is advisable.

Recommended Direction and Best Time to Ride

The best direction to ride the Parenzana is from Trieste to Poreč. This allows for a more gradual ascent through Slovenia, followed by an enjoyable descent through Croatia after a stunning hilltop town Grožnjan (the highest point of the trail located at 293 metres). Spring and autumn offer the best conditions, with comfortable temperatures and fewer tourists. Summers can be extremely hot, especially in the exposed sections of Croatia, while winter can bring wet and muddy trails.

Route breakdown: main stages and highlights

Stage 1: Trieste (Italy) → Sežana (Slovenia) (~20 km)

The journey begins in Trieste, a vibrant port city with stunning architecture and Italian charm. Cyclists follow a mix of bike lanes and minor roads towards the Slovenian border. While this section lacks a dedicated trail, it offers beautiful sea views and a glimpse into Trieste's history. Crossing into Slovenia, the landscape shifts to rolling hills and vineyards.

Highlights: Piazza Unità d'Italia, Miramare Castle (short detour), Karst vineyards near Sežana.

Stage 2: Sežana → Motovun (Croatia) (~60 km)

This section traverses the Slovenian countryside, passing through the picturesque towns of Hrastovlje (famous for its 15th-century frescoes) and Izola, a charming coastal town. After crossing into Croatia near Dragonja, the trail enters the heart of Istria, a region known for its truffle forests and medieval villages. The climb towards Grožnjan, an artsy hilltop town, is one of the most rewarding parts of the route. From here, the trail follows a gentle downhill path to Motovun, another stunning medieval town.

Highlights: Hrastovlje Church, Slovenian coastline, Grožnjan art colony, Motovun truffle region.

Stage 3: Motovun → Poreč (~43 km)

From Motovun, the route continues through vineyards and olive groves, passing through several restored railway tunnels and viaducts. This final section features some of the most scenic landscapes of the journey. The descent towards Poreč, a coastal town with Roman ruins and a lively atmosphere, marks the end of the Parenzana.

Highlights: Parenzana tunnels, Viaduct over Mirna River, Poreč's Euphrasian Basilica (UNESCO site).

Notable points of interest

Historical and Cultural Highlights:

Poreč's Euphrasian Basilica – A UNESCO-listed Byzantine masterpiece.
Grožnjan – A hilltop town filled with artists' studios and stunning views.
Motovun – One of Croatia's most beautiful medieval towns, famous for its truffle industry.
Hrastovlje Church (Slovenia) – Home to 15th-century frescoes, including the famous "Dance of Death."

Culinary experiences:

Istrian truffles – Try fresh truffle pasta or truffle-infused olive oil.
Local wineries – Stop at a family-run vineyard for a wine tasting.
Seafood in Poreč – Enjoy fresh Adriatic fish at a seaside restaurant.

Accommodation options along the route

Trieste: Hotels and guesthouses near the city center.
Sežana: Small Bed and Breakfasts and countryside guesthouses.
Grožnjan and Motovun: Boutique hotels and charming guesthouses.
Poreč: Wide range of hotels, from budget-friendly hostels to luxurious seaside resorts.

Camping options are limited along the Parenzana, but some campgrounds can be found near Poreč.

Public transport connections

Arriving in Trieste: Easily accessible by train from major Italian cities (Venice, Milan, Rome). The Trieste Airport (TRS) offers international connections.
Returning from Poreč: Ferries operate between Poreč and Venice (seasonal). Buses run to Pula (Croatia), where you can catch domestic and international connections.
Alternative: Some cycling tour companies offer return shuttle services from Poreč to Trieste.

Common challenges and how to handle them

While the Parenzana is a rewarding ride, there are a few challenges to consider:

Steep climbs in Slovenia and Croatia: Some sections, especially around Grožnjan and Motovun, require effort. A gravel or trekking bike with proper gearing is recommended.
Hot summers: Croatian segments can be exposed with limited shade. Start early in the morning and carry plenty of water.
Trail surface: While mostly well-maintained, some parts can be rough, especially in remote areas. A hybrid, gravel, or mountain bike is ideal.
Limited facilities in rural areas: While larger towns offer plenty of food and accommodation options, services can be sparse in between. Plan meals and shopping stops accordingly.

Parenzana cycle trail - summary

The Parenzana is more than just a cycling route—it's a journey through history, nature, and culture. Whether you're drawn by its railway heritage, stunning landscapes, or rich Istrian cuisine, this trail offers a unique blend of adventure and discovery. Take your time, soak in the views, and enjoy the ride through one of Europe's most charming cycling routes!